Oval Cut Diamonds: The Complete Guide

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An oval is a brilliant-cut diamond stretched into an elongated shape — so it carries the fire of a round, looks larger than a round of the same weight, and lengthens the finger. The one thing to watch is the bow-tie. Here is everything that matters when choosing an oval.

The short answer

An oval looks larger than a round of the same carat and lengthens the finger, with full brilliant-cut sparkle — the one thing to check is that the bow-tie (a faint centre shadow) is soft, not dark. A length-to-width ratio around 1.35–1.50 reads most balanced. Every Montare oval is hand-picked for a soft bow-tie.

Key takeaways

  • Ovals look larger per carat than rounds because they spread more surface area face-up.
  • They elongate the finger and carry full brilliant-cut sparkle.
  • Watch the bow-tie — a dark band across the centre from cut depth; a well-cut oval minimises it.
  • The flattering length-to-width ratio is roughly 1.35–1.50.
  • Ovals pair beautifully with solitaire, hidden halo and three-stone settings.

What is an oval cut diamond?

The oval is a modified round brilliant — same facet logic, same lively return of light, but elongated. That shape change does two flattering things at once: it makes the stone read larger for its carat weight, and its long axis visually lengthens and slims the finger. It is consistently one of the most requested shapes, and for good reason.

Why ovals look larger

Carat is weight, not size. Because an oval spreads its weight across a longer, wider face-up area than a round, a well-cut oval can look noticeably bigger than a round of identical carat. It is one of the most efficient shapes for visible presence — part of why it suits a brand built on a three-carat floor.

Every centre diamond is Triple Excellent, D–E, VVS and at least three carats — the hard calls are made for you.

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The bow-tie effect

Every oval has some bow-tie: a shadowy band across the centre, shaped like a bow tie, caused by light leaking through the middle of the stone. A poorly cut oval has a pronounced, dark bow-tie; a well-cut one shows only a faint shadow that flickers as the hand moves. It cannot be fully eliminated — but it can be minimised, which is why ovals must be chosen by eye. Every Montare oval is hand-selected to keep the bow-tie soft.

The ideal length-to-width ratio

Ratio is personal, but most people find 1.35 to 1.50 the most balanced — elegant and elongated without looking narrow. Below 1.30 an oval starts to look rounder; above 1.50 it looks slimmer and more dramatic. There is no single right number, only the one that looks right to you.

L:W ratio Look
1.30–1.35 Fuller, rounder
1.35–1.50 Classic, balanced
1.50+ Slim, elongated, dramatic

The best settings for an oval

Ovals are wonderfully versatile. A solitaire celebrates the silhouette; a hidden halo adds sparkle and a touch more size; a three-stone frames it with meaning. See the full range in our guide to settings, and compare shapes in our visual guide.

Ovals and the Montare standard

What makes any oval beautiful is cut — see why Triple Excellent matters. Every Montare oval is lab-grown, D–E colour, VVS1–VVS2 clarity, Triple Excellent, three carats minimum, IGI certified, and hand-picked for a soft bow-tie. Design one in the ring builder or book a consultation.

Shop oval engagement rings

Every Montare oval is hand-selected and set to one fixed standard — D–E colour, VVS clarity, Triple Excellent cut, three carats minimum, IGI certified.

See oval rings →

Frequently asked questions

Do oval diamonds look bigger than round?

Yes. A well-cut oval spreads its weight over a larger face-up area, so it generally looks bigger than a round of the same carat, and it lengthens the finger.

What is the bow-tie in an oval diamond?

A shadowy band across the centre of the stone caused by light leaking through the middle. A well-cut oval keeps it faint; Montare hand-selects ovals to minimise it.

What is the best length-to-width ratio for an oval?

Most people prefer about 1.35 to 1.50 for a balanced, elegant look. It is ultimately a matter of taste.

Are oval diamonds more affordable than round?

Often, yes — ovals waste less rough in cutting than rounds and look larger per carat, so they tend to offer more visible size for the budget.

See an oval to standard. Build one in the ring builder or book a consultation.

The Montare standard

Lab-grown · D–E colour · VVS clarity · Triple Excellent · 3ct minimum · IGI certified

Every ring is made to order in Toronto and backed by our lifetime setting upgrade, with free, fully insured shipping.

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The Montare Standard

Configure a ring built to the floor.

VVS1–VVS2 clarity. D/E colour. Triple Excellent cut. Ideal table & depth. IGI certified. Three carats, minimum.

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