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A marquise is the most elongated diamond shape in common use: pointed at both ends, widest in the middle, and the largest-looking stone you can buy at any given carat weight. It is also the shape that demands the most from cut precision, because it carries the most pronounced bow-tie of any outline.
The Montare standard for marquise
| Proportion | Montare floor | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Table % | 54–58% | The flat top facet. Too wide and the stone loses fire; too narrow and the centre reads dark. |
| Depth % | 58–62% | How deep the stone is cut. Outside the ideal band light escapes through the bottom instead of returning to your eye. |
| Length-to-width | 1.85–2.10 | The outline’s proportions. Outside this band the shape starts to look stubby or unnaturally thin — at the same carat weight. |
| Face-up at 3 ct | 14.0 × 7.0 mm | The spread you actually see face-up, at our three-carat minimum. |
These are not market averages — they are the range every Montare marquise must fall inside before we will set it. Proportions are held per shape, not to one universal number.
What a marquise reveals
Every shape is honest about different things. This is what the marquise shows you — and what it hides.
| Faceting style | Brilliant |
| Shows inclusions | Hides them well |
| Shows body tint | Slight, concentrated at the points |
| Bow-tie risk | Most pronounced of any shape — cut precision decides it |
| Vulnerable points | Two — needs a V-prong at each end |
This is why the floor is fixed rather than negotiable: at D–E colour and VVS clarity, the two questions this shape would otherwise raise are settled before you ever see the stone.
Key takeaways
- A marquise reads larger face-up than any other shape at the same carat weight.
- It has two points, each needing a V-prong — six prongs is the usual arrangement.
- Its bow-tie is the most pronounced of any shape; cut precision is what controls it.
- It produces the strongest finger-lengthening effect available.
- Montare holds every marquise to 1.85–2.10 length-to-width, three carats minimum.
What is a marquise cut?
A marquise is a brilliant cut in a narrow, pointed-oval outline — two tapered points at either end, the widest part in the middle. It is sometimes called a navette, French for "little boat", which describes it well.
Unlike a pear, a marquise is symmetrical along both axes, which makes it structurally simpler to assess but no easier to cut. The two points must mirror each other exactly, the widest part must sit precisely at the midpoint, and the curves either side must match. Any drift is immediately visible because the eye has two reference points to compare rather than one.
As a brilliant cut it scatters light across many facets, so it hides small inclusions and faint body colour well. Its optical difficulty is not clarity or colour — it is the bow-tie, and that is a cut problem rather than a quality problem.
Where the marquise came from
The marquise has the most theatrical origin story of any diamond shape, and unusually for such stories it is broadly agreed on. Around 1745, King Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond cut in the shape of the smile — in some tellings, the lips — of his mistress Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, the Marquise de Pompadour. The shape took her title.
Whether the commission happened precisely as described is impossible to verify at this distance, but the association has stuck for nearly three centuries and it explains a great deal about how the shape is perceived. The marquise has always read as aristocratic, theatrical and slightly grand — the shape people choose when they want the ring to be noticed.
It has moved in and out of fashion more sharply than any other shape. It dominated the 1970s and 1980s, fell distinctly out of favour in the 1990s and 2000s, and has returned strongly in the last few years alongside a broader revival of elongated and vintage-leaning shapes.
Why it looks the biggest
Carat is weight, not size, and the marquise is the most efficient shape at converting weight into visible area. Its extreme elongation and comparatively shallow cut spread the stone across the longest possible footprint, so more of what you paid for sits where you can see it.
A well-proportioned three-carat marquise measures approximately 14.0 × 7.0mm. A three-carat round is 9.4mm across; a three-carat oval about 11.0 × 8.0mm. The marquise is half again as long as the round and noticeably longer than the oval. On a hand, that difference is not subtle.
The finger-lengthening effect follows from the same geometry, and it is the strongest of any shape. Worn north–south along the finger, the marquise's two points extend the visual line at both ends rather than one. If maximum apparent length is the goal, nothing else comes close.
The trade-off is that a marquise is narrow. It buys length by giving up width, so while it covers more total area, it does so in a slimmer band. Whether that reads as elegant or as thin is genuinely a matter of taste, and it is worth seeing one on a hand before deciding.
Every centre diamond is Triple Excellent, D–E, VVS and at least three carats — the hard calls are made for you.
Design a marquiseThe bow-tie and the ratio
Every elongated brilliant carries a bow-tie, and the marquise carries the most pronounced one of any shape. The reason is structural: it has two points pulling light away from the centre instead of one, and the highest length-to-width ratio of any common outline, which gives the shadow the most room to spread across the widest part of the stone.
A poorly proportioned marquise can show a dark band across a substantial portion of its face — enough to materially reduce how bright the stone looks. A well-cut one keeps it to soft shading that shifts as the stone moves.
As with every shape, no certificate records it. It is not part of the 4Cs and appears on no report from any laboratory. Two marquises with identical table, depth and ratio can look completely different, and the only way to judge is to watch the stone move. This is the single most important thing to check when buying a marquise, and it is the reason we hand-select every one rather than ordering to specification.
Ratio is the aesthetic decision. Montare holds every marquise to 1.85–2.10. Nearer 1.85 the shape reads fuller and slightly softer, with a better-lit centre. Nearer 2.10 it reads longer and more dramatic, and the bow-tie becomes harder to control. Around 1.95 is the balanced middle. Below about 1.75 a marquise starts to look like an indecisive oval; above about 2.25 it becomes genuinely difficult to cut well.
Protecting the points
A marquise has two tapered points, and they are the most exposed features on any diamond shape we cut. Each one needs protection, which is why a marquise is almost always set with V-prongs at both ends — prongs shaped to wrap over the tip and distribute pressure across it rather than gripping beside it.
That usually lands the total at six prongs: two V-prongs at the ends and four along the body. It is more setting hardware than a round or cushion needs, and it is not optional. A marquise with unprotected points is a chip waiting to happen.
Properly set, though, a marquise is a perfectly practical everyday ring. The points are protected by metal, not exposed, and diamond remains the hardest material there is. The care required is the same modest awareness any raised setting asks for: mindfulness around fabric, hard surfaces and car doors, and periodic prong checks as part of routine cleaning and maintenance.
The best settings for a marquise
Point protection drives the choice, and then the shape's drama does the rest.
A solitaire with V-prongs at both ends is the purest expression — nothing competing with an outline that is already making a statement. A bezel is the most secure option available, wrapping both points in metal and removing the exposure entirely; on a marquise it reads as sleek and modern rather than heavy, because the outline is so slim. A cathedral lifts the stone on arches that suit the marquise's height and theatricality.
Orientation is worth considering deliberately. North–south, along the finger, delivers the full lengthening effect and is the traditional choice. East–west, set across the finger, is a striking contemporary alternative that trades that effect for a bolder, more architectural line — and because a marquise is symmetrical along both axes, it works visually in a way an asymmetrical pear does not. Made to order, that is a design decision rather than a constraint.
Marquises and the Montare standard
Every Montare marquise is lab-grown, D–E colour, VVS1–VVS2 clarity and Triple Excellent — excellent cut, polish and symmetry — with a table of 54–58%, a depth of 58–62% and a 1.85–2.10 outline. Three-carat minimum, IGI certified, made to order in Toronto.
The marquise is the shape where cut quality is least negotiable, because it is the shape where poor cutting is most visible. The bow-tie punishes imprecise pavilion angles more here than anywhere else, and the double symmetry — two points, two matched curves — leaves nowhere for sloppiness to hide.
Holding Triple Excellent and hand-selecting for bow-tie is what makes the shape's advantages available without its risks. You get the largest face-up spread of any shape and the strongest lengthening effect, without the dark centre that gives badly cut marquises their reputation. The full standard is on our standards page, and if you are deciding between the two pointed shapes, our pear versus marquise comparison puts them side by side.
Choosing your marquise’s ratio
Two marquises of identical carat weight can look markedly different depending on length-to-width. Montare holds every marquise between 1.85–2.10 — this is how the band behaves inside that range.
| L:W | Look | Who it suits |
|---|---|---|
| 1.85 | Broader, rounder outline | Reads closest to a classic silhouette and sits wider on the finger. |
| 1.98 | The balanced middle | The most universally flattering point in the band, and what most buyers choose. |
| 2.10 | Narrow and dramatic | Maximum finger-lengthening; the outline reads bold rather than traditional. |
Settings that suit a marquise
Every Montare marquise is set to one fixed standard — D–E colour, VVS clarity, Triple Excellent cut, three carats minimum, IGI certified. Start with the marquise already selected.
Design a marquise →Looking for finished designs rather than the decision? See our marquise engagement rings.
Frequently asked questions
Do marquise diamonds look the biggest?
Yes — a marquise reads larger face-up than any other shape at the same carat weight, because its extreme elongation and shallower cut spread the weight across the longest footprint. A three-carat marquise measures roughly 14.0 × 7.0mm against 9.4mm for a three-carat round.
Why do marquise diamonds have the worst bow-tie?
Two points pull light away from the centre instead of one, and the highest length-to-width ratio of any common shape gives the shadow the most room to spread. Cut precision is what controls it, and it is not recorded on any certificate.
What is the best ratio for a marquise?
Montare holds every marquise to 1.85–2.10. Nearer 1.85 reads fuller with a better-lit centre; nearer 2.10 reads longer and more dramatic but makes the bow-tie harder to control. Around 1.95 is the balanced middle.
Are marquise points fragile?
They are the most exposed features of any shape we cut, which is why a marquise is set with V-prongs at both ends — usually six prongs in total. Properly set, it is a perfectly practical everyday ring; unprotected points are a chip waiting to happen.
Where does the marquise cut come from?
Around 1745, King Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond cut to resemble the smile of his mistress Jeanne-Antoinette Poisson, the Marquise de Pompadour. The shape took her title and has read as aristocratic and theatrical ever since.
Can a marquise be worn east-west?
Yes, and it works particularly well because a marquise is symmetrical along both axes. Set across the finger it trades the lengthening effect for a bolder, more architectural line. North–south remains the traditional orientation.
How many prongs does a marquise need?
Usually six: a V-prong at each point plus four along the body. The V-prongs are not optional — they wrap the tip and distribute pressure across it rather than gripping beside it.
Do marquise diamonds hide inclusions well?
Yes. As a brilliant cut it scatters light across many facets, disguising small inclusions and faint colour. The marquise's difficulty is optical rather than about quality — the bow-tie is a cut problem, not a clarity one.
The Montare standard
Lab-grown · D–E colour · VVS clarity · Triple Excellent · 3ct minimum · IGI certified
Every ring is made to order in Toronto and backed by our lifetime setting upgrade, with free, fully insured shipping.
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